Posted by Adam Carter on Fri, Jul 16, 2010 @ 10:30 AM
Guest Contributor Alexandra DeVries,
Author Frommers Guide to Brazil
I just returned from the Pantanal and was greatly impressed by the organization of the tour, and most importantly of all, with the destination itself. Although "site tour" may not be the most accurate name for this trip; it was more like Boot Camp! Up at the crack of dawn (or shortly thereafter),early morning hikes, afternoon hikes, swimming in frigid rivers where piranhas, alligators and anacondas lurk, canoeing, biking and horseback riding....not to mention falling into (very comfortable and cozy) beds by 10 pm. Very unlike my normal more bohemian ways.
However, the one week trip was a fabulous opportunity to experience Mato Grosso. This state in central Brazil allows visitors to experience three different ecosystems; the Amazon, the Cerrado and the Pantanal.
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The most southern part of the Amazon rainforest dips all the way down to Mato Grosso and is only a 5-hour drive from Cuiabá. Our "home base", the Pousada Jardim Amazônia, is nestled in a well-preserved piece of rainforest and run by a friendly, outgoing couple, whose three enterprising daughters own and manage the fabulous Zank Hotel in Salvador.
Zanketi and his team have carved a beautiful and comfortable property out of the rainforest. The main lodge is the original family house and features a dining room, small reception and 4 rooms. The rooms are small but pleasantly furnished, with a bit of an old homestead feel to it. Just across from the lodge are 4 new bungalows with spacious rooms that can comfortably accommodate3-4 people. A number of wooden walkways lead to the natural swimming pools, formed by a small stream.
Although this part of the Amazon is not as grand and vast as what you may see on a trip further north, it offers an excellent introduction to this ecosystem as the flora and fauna are most certainly Amazonian. Various large fishponds surround the pousada where Zanketi breeds several beautiful (and tasty) species of Amazonian fish. Activities include nature walks, canoeing and swimming. We enjoyed a fascinating forest walk to observe the various Amazonian species of plants, trees and birds, and learned a great deal about the workings of this ecosystem. After a 2-hour walk we were rewarded with a delicious lunch that included freshly grilled Amazonian fish. Then it was time for a boat ride to look for anacondas and other critters. We stopped at a lovely white sandy beach(completely deserted as you can imagine) and went for a swim. The fact that we hadn't found any anacondas earlier was somehow not that reassuring. Our return to the lodge was by canoe, gently floating downstream without the noise of a boat engine, observing the river and the vegetation.
The next day we headed to Nobres, an area almost halfway between the Pousada Jardim Amazônia and Cuiabá. This region is blessed with many limestone caves, springs and rivers, very similar to those in Bonito, without the crowds and hype. Unfortunately our swim coincided with one of the colder days of our tour. (I must disclose here that I have a particularly low tolerance for cold water, but even by objective standards it was #¨#%#% cold!). However, duty called so in the river we went with a mask, snorkel and floating sandals to prevent you from touching the bottom (kicks up the sand and could possibly disturb the stingrays, which might attract the piranhas who would chew on you just enough to peak the interest of the anaconda... ok, only the part about the sand and stingray is really true; the piranhas don't actually seem to bite any snorkelers and the anacondas are happy eating other critters). Because of the limestone, the river is crystal clear, just like the ones in Bonito. The region offers several other snorkel and even dive sites, hikes and horseback riding. Our dive master Edson runs a number of dive tours in this region.
Posted by Adam Carter on Tue, Apr 27, 2010 @ 07:37 PM
Now about the accommodations: While they - like the airfares! - are not cheap, there is a nice selection to choose form, and my top picks are as follows:
The most famous is of course Maravillha, the celebrated pousada owned by several Sao Paulo celebrities. Nice guest chalets and an invisible edge pool dropping to the sea make it as exclusive as can be, and the service is hushed and almost oriental in its nature. While its stunning views and location almost right on the beach makes it a top pick, it is very pricey. Is it worth it? I'm not so sure. It has the name and cachet, but may not be the best overall value
That distinction probably goes to Pousada Ze Maria, named after its colorful owner. While not on the water, it also has great views as it is set at the base of the iconic finger mountain (visible from almost every point in Fernando). A series of chalets circle the inviting pool area, and they offer privacy and a very classy ambiance. Another plus is the sensational restaurant which once a week offers a gastronomic event that is not to be missed
Perhaps the best value in terms of price, location, style and features is Solar do Ventos. Owned by a delightful family headed by an Army Officer from the south of Brazil who was stationed here and never left, it is situated behind Maravillha, within walking distance to the beach. The cabanas are decidedly simpler than the above two options, and there is no pool. But what it lacks in snazzy facilities it more than makes up in a homey environment which is - again - in a great location
Rounding out my top picks is the Pousada do Vale, located - of course, in a valley - in Remedios Village. It is a pousada, no chalets, and the rooms up and down the hallway have an almost dormitory like feeling to them, but the energy is great. Very friendly, a younger decidedly more budget crowd. And it is in walking distance to everything you cold want in Remdios, making it a rather happening place.
Final note: To go much cheaper in the official hotels or pousadas is - in my mind - not worth it. Either choose one of these caliber options, or really drop in price - and style - and stay at a "familiar", or bed and breakfast run by locals (often with partners form the mainland. Simple, funky, but a god way to see Fernando on the (relative) cheap.
Bottom Line: If you are an adventurer and love beaches, this is a must visit, time and budget permitting. Especially great for Honeymooners looking of that get-away-from-it-all experience. There is nothing like it. I suggest 3 nights, perhaps 4. Combine Fernando with Recife and Olinda - and maybe Porto de Galinhas- and you have a fantastic 7-9 day Brazilian experience that has it all.
Posted by Adam Carter on Sat, Apr 17, 2010 @ 08:53 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts
There are few Brazilian destinations that are so hyped, so lauded with praise, than Fernando de Noronha
In fact, it was in part this very hype, the never-ending raves from Brazilians and international travelers alike, that seemed to me to be too good to be true.
How, I asked myself, could it possibly be worth all the effort (must first take a flight to the Northeast - to Recife or Natal - THEN take another flight to the island) and all the expense (flights are $450pp - no Brazil Airpass segment allowed- and the simplest pousadas charge an arm and a leg) just to go to an island with nice beaches?
Being an island connoisseur of sorts myself, I just could not fathom how any one island would merit the sacrifices and investment necessary to laze on another beach. Especially when one considers how BIG Brazil is and how LITTLE TIME most visitors have to explore its many fantastic destinations.
Well, I just returned form "Noronha" and I can tell you: This place delivers - and perhaps exceeds - the hype... It IS worth the time and the money to get there, and it is well worth making it part of your Brazilian itinerary
An almost two hour flight from the mainland, and for many years a restricted area for military or other reasons (think a bucolic Devil's Island), Noronha has managed to develop in its own unique eco/social system, kind of like its Pacific counterpart the Galapagos. A $25pp/ day visitor tax and a strict limit of 350 tourists allowed on the island for any one overnight period make the island even more restrictive (shall we say exclusive?). Add to all this strict regulations on who can own property (only long time residents) and what NEW constructions can be built (virtually nothing!) and you have a formula for a destination almost frozen in time and protected from over development and anything resembling mass tourism.
In fact, it is this air of exclusivity and privacy that makes this place so attractive. One really feels "privileged" just to be here, and part of a private club of fortunate and savvy visitors. And the island's petite dimensions (it is only a few miles wide and just a few more long) only enhance that feeling
Now, for the attractions:
0.Stunning physical beauty. I will not waste words here, but will tell you this: Noronha is one of the few places in the world where the reality is much more beautiful than the tourist brochures. Pictures just do not do justice to the pristine beauty of the island
0.Incredible beaches: Not only beautiful (the world has many) but the virtually empty stretches of virgin beach really evoke comparisons with the famous Leonardo DeCaprio film "The Beach". The choice of hide away - be they calm bays or surf-washed stretches - really overawe
0.A very mellow vibe, from sunrise to sunset and into the evening, the pace is slow but soothing. A special end to the day is the sunset bar where a crowd assembles daily to watch the sunset to the sounds of jazz, MPB and more. I imagine what Montego Bay was like 30 years ago
0.Nice selection of restaurants and cafes, mostly in the Village of Remdios, the so-called capital of the island.
0.Cool activities to enjoy, top among them a full day "all-around-the-island beach safari" by van or jeep. It's cheap and a must-do in order to see all the different beaches - choose the ones you like and come back later to spend more time! Same with the boat trip (half days in the morning) that takes you to other beaches for swimming and chilling. And of course you can do a great "baptism" dive course in a half day, or just snorkel to your heart's content. Fernando is a diver's paradise, just an extra bonus point!
Posted by Adam Carter on Thu, Apr 01, 2010 @ 11:55 AM
I personally favor a selection of three properties all owned by a Brazilian/ American couple, Kiki and Scott Stemm: Hotel Pontal de Ocaporã and the Pousadas Tabajuba and Tabapitanga. They are all classy, unique and 100% Brazilian, boasting privileged locations away from the hustle and bustle. Ocaporã is more family oriented, while the smaller Tabapitanga - while simple, tasteful, is really just for couples. Tabajuba works for just about anyone.
All three remind me a little of years past in PDG and that is really the point: Porto de Galinhas was really at one time a laid back, mellow Brazilian beach village, and it earned its reputation as a little bit of paradise on the Brazil's northeast coast.
But today, like so many other paradises (Key West, Mykonos) the essence that originally contributed to the magic has been somewhat compromised by its own very appeal and success.
Now, this is not to say that PDG is "ruined" ... far from it! It IS a wonderful destination for sun, fun and good living that deserves a visit as part of any Pernambuco itinerary. Besides the trip to the natural pools, a beach buggy tour to the nearby river and mangroves is a great way to spend an afternoon, especially when you top it off with a nice ice cold beer and some grilled shrimp at a nearby beach bar. Very hard to beat the food in Pernambuco, as referred to in an earlier post!
And I also recommend a day trip to some of the more distant beaches, about another hour beyond PDG. While they do not offer overnight accommodations, a wonderful "remote beach experience" can be had with an inexpensive day trip sold in shops in PDG's village. Don't miss it
Bottom Line:
Choose your lodging to fit your style and expectations. Stay 2 nights/ 3 days and you will have an excellent beach experience. Combine with 2 nights/ 3 days in Recife and of course - not to be missed! - 3 nights/ 4 days in Fernando de Noronha, and you'll have yourself a week's vacation you will never forget
Posted by Adam Carter on Tue, Mar 16, 2010 @ 02:54 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
I recently travelled on a site inspection trip hosted by the state's tourist office, to Pernambuco, one of Brazil's most culturally rich and naturally blessed states.
This is the second in a series of reports about my findings, and how they would influence the planning of a potential visitor's travel itinerary.
Porto de Galinhasis a renowned Brazilian beach destination in Pernambuco, some 60 kilometers/ one hour drive from Recife's airport (Recife itself being a fabled beach AND Cultural destination - see previous blog entry).
Let's get to the heart of the matter straight away: "PDG" has earned its fame.
Viagem Magazine - the Travel and Leisure of Brazil - named it the best Brazilian beach destination 4 years in a row in recent years. And most Brazilians you will find sing its praises.
Its excellent beaches, funky little fishing village and most of all its iconic "piscinas naturais" (natural pools) that appear directly offshore in the shallow reefs at low tide have made it an icon of the northeast, and perhaps all of Brazil. The pools, reached by a short "jangada" (small balsa wood sail boats manned by local villagers) are indeed delightful, particularly when the sea is calm and the sun is shinning. Pretty darn nice!
The picture postcard appeal has fueled an increase in interest and the attendant growth of the village and surrounding areas. There are now a variety of smart restaurants, cafes, shops etc. all catering to the growing number of visitors, both national and international. Indeed, PDG is on its way to becoming a mega destination in its own right, and notably, most visitors to Pernambuco now spend only 1 or 2 (if any!) nights in Recife before "doing" their vacation in PDG. A surge in charter flights from Europe in particular has meant rapid growth in large, group-oriented hotels along the once deserted stretch of beach.
Having said this, much charm remains in PDG, and by making the right choices in terms of program and accommodations, it can serve as a very excellent 2 nights/ 3 day beach resort getaway. The vastly increased hotel infrastructure offers something for everyone. On the top end of the spectrum we have Nannai, the fabled and very exclusive Polynesian-styled resort favored by honeymooners and those like-minded. If you chose this property, however, it is very much recommend splurging and book a bungalow (does not have to be beach front - a regular one will do!). Staying in the main building is not the same.
Or, you can consider a family friendly, larger resort, usually all-inclusive, like Summerville, Enotel and Beach Class. All three properties are perfectly fine and have great beaches, not to mention tons of activities and lot's of good, non-stop food.
Posted by Adam Carter on Sat, Mar 13, 2010 @ 07:51 PM
Having not visited in over 8 years, I was amazed and impressed by the vibrant and exuberant display of cultural expression at almost every turn. A quick sampling includes:- On arrival at the airport, the truly enthusiastic group of Frevo dancers and musicians greeting you- The incredible array of gourmet level restaurants around town, from regional to national to international specialties- Fabulous architecture and authentic historical charm in the adjacent old town of Olinda, just 15 minutes taxi ride from the city - Artisan workshops filled with high quality works in a variety of media, especially those of the dueling Brennand Brothers!- History oozing from the streets, such as what you find downtown at the oldest synagogue in the New World- Well maintained and beautiful stretches of beaches, including the hotel-rich Boa Viagem district
And - because I was lucky enough to be in town right before Carnival - I can vouch for the beauty of this pre-Lenten festival that finds its expression in Recife/ Olinda like nowhere else in Brazil! Downtown Recife - almost abandoned a few years ago - is now lovingly restored as ground zero for Carnival celebrations that seem to run from December through March. And from personal experience, I can tell you that the Carnival offerings here - almost all based on exciting but not intimidating street celebrations - are certainly the most democratic , authentic and "gringo accessible" of all in Brazil. We were amazed at the beautiful mixture of people of all ages and background coming together in a true and high energy, traditional Carnival spirit (more on Carnival in future blogs).
In short, Recife impressed me big time! It has recaptured its past glory and is focused on making it self a must-see destination for the international visitor. As far as I am concerned it can rightfully call itself "Brazil's Cultural Capital"
Bottom Line: Don't miss it! Stay for 2 nights/ 3 days and chose either a beachfront hotel in Boa Viagem - I like the Atlante - or instead (my recommendation) stay in old Olinda at either the Sete Colinas or the Pousada Amparo. The atmosphere in Olinda is excellent and visiting downtown Recife is only a 15minutes drive away. And remember, for the perfect week, combine this with a 2 night stay in Porto de Galinhas, and a 3 night's stay in Fernando de Noronha. You won't regret it! (More on these destinations in next entries)
Posted by Adam Carter on Tue, Mar 02, 2010 @ 06:47 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
I recently travelled on a site inspection trip hosted by the state's tourist office, to Pernambuco, one of Brazil's most culturally rich and naturally blessed states.
This is the first in a series of reports about my findings, and how they would influence the planning of a potential visitor's travel itinerary.
Located squarely in the heart of Brazil's northeast region (think America's southern states... maybe Mississippi!) Pernambuco is famous for epic historical struggles (the Portuguese, French, Dutch and English all fought over it), rich cultural traditions (European, African and Native American blood lines contribute exotic and colorful heritages), exciting music and dance and an enviable culinary scene. Top that off with a beautiful coastline of sublime beaches (Porto de Galinhas is only one of them!) and the breathtaking and environmentally pristine archipelago of Fernando de Noronha set hundreds of miles into the South Atlantic Ocean and you have a the recipe for a compelling travelers destination.
And today, with direct flights from major US cities right into Recife (Delta from Atlanta and American from Miami) there is more reason than ever for visitors to Brazil to consider Pernambuco Let's start with Recife. Named for the vast corridor of reefs that protect its beaches (Boa Viagem is the famous one!) and harbor, Recife is the state capital. A central player in Portugal's development (shall we say exploitation?) of Brazil, Recife was always one of the jewels in the empire's crown. And today, after a century of relative neglect, its historical and cultural attractions are making a big comeback, positioning itself as the "culture capital of Brazil". And lest you think that this is overblown, empty rhetoric, let me assure you: Recife is indeed all that!
Posted by Adam Carter on Thu, Feb 25, 2010 @ 07:16 PM
The Gateway of Manaus
If you do stay in Manaus, you have two options: Go deluxe and stay at the impressive Tropical Hotel on the banks of the Rio Negro... and within walking distance of Ponta Negra nightlife scene, some of the best live music you will hear in Brazil, on the banks of the river and under the stars. But consider upgrading to a Superior Room, as the Standards are not in best shape.
Or consider the economical and downtown-located (walking distance to the Opera House) Krystal Hotel. It is a simple 3-star but is well priced and let's you explore the funkier side of Manaus by foot.
Now let's go to the jungle!
There are two ways to "do" the Amazon!
Rollin' on the River
The most romantic vision is to take a riverboat "down the river". This is fine as long as you keep in mind the following: You don't want to "go down the river" because it is too far and too wide and actually a bit boring - miles wide at parts! Very few people pursue their dream of taking a river boat from Manaus to Belem because once you learn more about the difficulties, time and cost involved, it simply is not worth it for travellers on a multi-city Brazilian itinerary.
Much better is to pick up a special expedition boat in Manaus and do a circular route around the Rio Negro tributary. It is smaller, more intimate, more adventurous and - since it is a black water system (as in "Rio Negro") very few mosquitoes my friends! There are a variety of options; from the deluxe cruise ship-like Iberostar to chartering private regional styles boats for a Rio Negro Safari- ideal for groups of adventures or for families in search of smoothing different. Between these two extremes there are a couple of regularly scheduled riverboats that I recommend highly, with fixed departures and excellent facilities but a real "Heart of Darkness" vibe. One is the Amazon Clipper (and its sister the Amazon Clipper Premium). Another is the Tucano for more extended, 7 day expeditions. The Clipper group is ideal as they offer 2, 3 and 5 night programs and the itineraries are great. Read more about them on our site.
Or Do the Lodge Option
The other way to "do" the Amazon is by staying in (realtive!) comfort at a jungle lodge.
Within 4 hours of Manaus there are a number of excellent lodge choices, but each one is very different, so you need to know what your trade offs are in terms of cost, comfort, how far you want to travel, size of lodge etc. These factors are what characterize each lodge and will determine how you enjoy it. Ariau Jungle Lodge is massive, and a real theme-park like environment. Many people - and families - enjoy it. But it is not "a lodge" as we consider it. More like a hotel in the jungle, with ample faculties and nice excursions. The Juma Lodge and The Tupana Lodge are two options much more remote in the jungle, taking 3-4 hours to get there. But getting there is half the fun. These are rustic but pristine and deliver a real sense of adventure. In the middle is the Amazon Eco Park. Very nicely done, great feel, but more built up and only 45 minutes from Manaus. However, you still feel remote.
And here is the deal: Most people do end up staying at one of these lodges, and forego the boat experience. Why? Basically because the jungle lodge option is cheaper, you can start on any day (versus fixed departure dates) and frankly the activities are the same! Whether you stay at a lodge or travel by boat, you do essentially the same treks, nature observing, piranha fishing, caiman spotting, jungle survival training, etc. So for the comfort, flexibility and price, many opt for the lodge
I will say, however, there is something very alluring and romantic about the boat option. If you have the time and the $$$, consider it!
That's all for now. More on individual Amazon programs and products in later posts. Coming up next: Highlights of Brazil's Northeast - Recife, Olinda & Porto de Galinhas!
Posted by Adam Carter on Sun, Feb 21, 2010 @ 06:38 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
The next few blog entries will cover recent trips I have taken to Brazil, including the Amazon, Fortaleza, Canoa Quebrada, Recife, Olinda, Fernando de Noronha and Rio de Janeiro.
Let's start with the Amazon(and this will be a general overview; say tuned for more specific hotel, lodge and riverboat reviews in later editions)
When, Where and How Long?
Ah, the Amazon, what can I say?
Even though I am a city boy at heart there is no sensation to compare to the feeling of being on the mighty river. Contrary to conventional wisdom, the Amazon (in and around Manaus anyway) is no hotter and no humid than, say, August in Connecticut (trust me I know!). Sure it's hot and humid, but it is not unmanageable. And there are more mosquitoes in my backyard in Florida than in the jungle surrounding Manaus. Really! Having said that, yes, an Amazon adventure is within the reach of most reasonably active people. Think of it as summer camp for adults. And anytime of year is fine (rains a bit more December- February, but not all day long... and it IS a rainforest experience you want anyway, right?)
And how much time to spend? An absolute minimum 3 nights (can be all nights in the jungle or perhaps 1 night in Manaus and 2 nights in the jungle.... Up to personal preference). I find for me, one night in Manaus and three nights on a boat or in a lodge is fine. If I had a more mellow schedule I would say maybe 5 nights in the jungle with one or two nights spent camping in the jungle (all lodges offer this option)
Posted by Adam Carter on Sun, Feb 14, 2010 @ 09:23 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
Welcome to the much delayed first edition of the Brazil Nuts Blog
Although the plan was to launch in January, a hectic travel schedule taking me across four continents this first quarter of 2009 put a monkey wrench into those plans. But now, on April 1st (an auspicious date?) we're in business.
Why Another Blog?
This blog is dedicated to all of us who in some form or fashion consider ourselves "Brazil Nuts" ... that is, crazy about this wonderful country, its culture and its people. Since my first visit in 1979, I was captivated by this destination and have spent the better part of my professional and personal life engaged in discovering, promoting and of course enjoying its unique attributes. And I believe myself fortunate enough to have been granted a privileged vantage point from which to experience and understand the country, and add to the general discussion, especially for travelers to Brazil. But more on me, my background and our company in another blog.
The focus of this blog will be on my observations on all things relating to travel to and within Brazil: specifically, travel tips on places to go, things to do, and people to meet!
We'll make itinerary recommendations, restaurant, shopping and nightlife suggestions and supply reports on destinations we have visited, and hotels, pousadas, resorts and lodges we have inspected.
We'll also tell you about the fascinating people around Brazil who can make your trip more enjoyable and meaningful Anything and everything that can help you to better plan and enjoy your Brazilian experience. From time to time we will digress and explore non-related tourism issues in Brazil, perhaps take on a more controversial topic or just plain vent.
But the idea is always to feed you Brazil Nuts with what you crave: more info and more insight on how to enjoy this great destination.