Travel to the Amazon – Your Choice of Jungle Lodges, Riverboats & Hotels
Posted by Adam Carter on Wed, Apr 01, 2009 @ 03:00 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
The next few blog entries will cover recent trips I have taken to Brazil, including the Amazon, Fortaleza, Canoa Quebrada, Recife, Olinda, Fernando de Noronha and Rio de Janeiro.
Let's start with the Amazon (and this will be a general overview; say tuned for more specific hotel, lodge and riverboat reviews in later editions)
When, Where and How Long?
Ah, the Amazon, what can I say?
Even though I am a city boy at heart there is no sensation to compare to the feeling of being on the mighty river. Contrary to conventional wisdom, the Amazon (in and around Manaus anyway) is no hotter and no humid than, say, August in Connecticut (trust me I know!). Sure it's hot and humid, but it is not unmanageable. And there are more mosquitoes in my backyard in Florida than in the jungle surrounding Manaus. Really! Having said that, yes, an Amazon adventure is within the reach of most reasonably active people. Think of it as summer camp for adults. And anytime of year is fine (rains a bit more December- February, but not all day long... and it IS a rainforest experience you want anyway, right?)
And how much time to spend? An absolute minimum 3 nights (can be all nights in the jungle or perhaps 1 night in Manaus and 2 nights in the jungle.... Up to personal preference). I find for me, one night in Manaus and three nights on a boat or in a lodge is fine. If I had a more mellow schedule I would say maybe 5 nights in the jungle with one or two nights spent camping in the jungle (all lodges offer this option)
The Gateway of Manaus
If you do stay in Manaus, you have two options: Go deluxe and stay at the impressive Tropical Hotel on the banks of the Rio Negro... and within walking distance of Ponta Negra nightlife scene, some of the best live music you will hear in Brazil, on the banks of the river and under the stars. But consider upgrading to a Superior Room, as the Standards are not in best shape.
Or consider the economical and downtown-located (walking distance to the Opera House) Krystal Hotel. It is a simple 3-star but is well priced and let's you explore the funkier side of Manaus by foot.
Now let's go to the jungle!
There are two ways to "do" the Amazon!
Rollin' on the River
The most romantic vision is to take a riverboat "down the river". This is fine as long as you keep in mind the following: You don't want to "go down the river" because it is too far and too wide and actually a bit boring - miles wide at parts! Very few people pursue their dream of taking a river boat from Manaus to Belem because once you learn more about the difficulties, time and cost involved, it simply is not worth it for travellers on a multi-city Brazilian itinerary.
Much better is to pick up a special expedition boat in Manaus and do a circular route around the Rio Negro tributary. It is smaller, more intimate, more adventurous and - since it is a black water system (as in "Rio Negro") very few mosquitoes my friends! There are a variety of options; from the deluxe cruise ship-like Iberostar to chartering private regional styles boats for a Rio Negro Safari- ideal for groups of adventures or for families in search of smoothing different. Between these two extremes there are a couple of regularly scheduled riverboats that I recommend highly, with fixed departures and excellent facilities but a real "Heart of Darkness" vibe. One is the Amazon Clipper (and its sister the Amazon Clipper Premium). Another is the Tucano for more extended, 7 day expeditions. The Clipper group is ideal as they offer 2, 3 and 5 night programs and the itineraries are great. Read more about them on our site.
Or Do the Lodge Option
The other way to "do" the Amazon is by staying in (realtive!) comfort at a jungle lodge.
Within 4 hours of Manaus there are a number of excellent lodge choices, but each one is very different, so you need to know what your trade offs are in terms of cost, comfort, how far you want to travel, size of lodge etc. These factors are what characterize each lodge and will determine how you enjoy it. Ariau Jungle Lodge is massive, and a real theme-park like environment. Many people - and families - enjoy it. But it is not "a lodge" as we consider it. More like a hotel in the jungle, with ample faculties and nice excursions. The Juma Lodge and The Tupana Lodge are two options much more remote in the jungle, taking 3-4 hours to get there. But getting there is half the fun. These are rustic but pristine and deliver a real sense of adventure. In the middle is the Amazon Eco Park. Very nicely done, great feel, but more built up and only 45 minutes from Manaus. However, you still feel remote.
And here is the deal: Most people do end up staying at one of these lodges, and forego the boat experience. Why? Basically because the jungle lodge option is cheaper, you can start on any day (versus fixed departure dates) and frankly the activities are the same! Whether you stay at a lodge or travel by boat, you do essentially the same treks, nature observing, piranha fishing, caiman spotting, jungle survival training, etc. So for the comfort, flexibility and price, many opt for the lodge
I will say, however, there is something very alluring and romantic about the boat option. If you have the time and the $$$, consider it!
That's all for now. More on individual Amazon programs and products in later posts. Coming up next: Highlights of Brazil's Northeast - Recife, Olinda & Porto de Galinhas!