Pernambuco – Site Inspection Report, Part #2 .......... Porto de Galinhas - Paradise Lost or Found?
Posted by Adam Carter on Tue, Apr 21, 2009 @ 05:17 PM
Greetings Brazil Nuts!
I recently travelled on a site inspection trip hosted by the state's tourist office, to Pernambuco, one of Brazil's most culturally rich and naturally blessed states.
This is the second in a series of reports about my findings, and how they would influence the planning of a potential visitor's travel itinerary.
Porto de Galinhas is a renowned Brazilian beach destination in Pernambuco, some 60 kilometers/ one hour drive from Recife's airport (Recife itself being a fabled beach AND Cultural destination - see previous blog entry).
Let's get to the heart of the matter straight away: "PDG" has earned its fame.
Viagem Magazine - the Travel and Leisure of Brazil - named it the best Brazilian beach destination 4 years in a row in recent years. And most Brazilians you will find sing its praises.
Its excellent beaches, funky little fishing village and most of all its iconic "piscinas naturais" (natural pools) that appear directly offshore in the shallow reefs at low tide have made it an icon of the northeast, and perhaps all of Brazil. The pools, reached by a short "jangada" (small balsa wood sail boats manned by local villagers) are indeed delightful, particularly when the sea is calm and the sun is shinning. Pretty darn nice!
The picture postcard appeal has fueled an increase in interest and the attendant growth of the village and surrounding areas. There are now a variety of smart restaurants, cafes, shops etc. all catering to the growing number of visitors, both national and international. Indeed, PDG is on its way to becoming a mega destination in its own right, and notably, most visitors to Pernambuco now spend only 1 or 2 (if any!) nights in Recife before "doing" their vacation in PDG. A surge in charter flights from Europe in particular has meant rapid growth in large, group-oriented hotels along the once deserted stretch of beach.
Having said this, much charm remains in PDG, and by making the right choices in terms of program and accommodations, it can serve as a very excellent 2 nights/ 3 day beach resort getaway. The vastly increased hotel infrastructure offers something for everyone. On the top end of the spectrum we have Nannai, the fabled and very exclusive Polynesian-styled resort favored by honeymooners and those like-minded. If you chose this property, however, it is very much recommend splurging and book a bungalow (does not have to be beach front - a regular one will do!). Staying in the main building is not the same.
Or, you can consider a family friendly, larger resort, usually all-inclusive, like Summerville, Enotel and Beach Class. All three properties are perfectly fine and have great beaches, not to mention tons of activities and lot's of good, non-stop food.
I personally favor a selection of three properties all owned by a Brazilian/ American couple, Kiki and Scott Stemm: Hotel Pontal de Ocaporã and the Pousadas Tabajuba and Tabapitanga. They are all classy, unique and 100% Brazilian, boasting privileged locations away from the hustle and bustle. Ocaporã is more family oriented, while the smaller Tabapitanga - while simple, tasteful, is really just for couples. Tabajuba works for just about anyone.
All three remind me a little of years past in PDG and that is really the point: Porto de Galinhas was really at one time a laid back, mellow Brazilian beach village, and it earned its reputation as a little bit of paradise on the Brazil's northeast coast.
But today, like so many other paradises (Key West, Mykonos) the essence that originally contributed to the magic has been somewhat compromised by its own very appeal and success.
Now, this is not to say that PDG is "ruined" ... far from it! It IS a wonderful destination for sun, fun and good living that deserves a visit as part of any Pernambuco itinerary. Besides the trip to the natural pools, a beach buggy tour to the nearby river and mangroves is a great way to spend an afternoon, especially when you top it off with a nice ice cold beer and some grilled shrimp at a nearby beach bar. Very hard to beat the food in Pernambuco, as referred to in an earlier post!
And I also recommend a day trip to some of the more distant beaches, about another hour beyond PDG. While they do not offer overnight accommodations, a wonderful "remote beach experience" can be had with an inexpensive day trip sold in shops in PDG's village. Don't miss it
Bottom Line:
Choose your lodging to fit your style and expectations. Stay 2 nights/ 3 days and you will have an excellent beach experience. Combine with 2 nights/ 3 days in Recife and of course - not to be missed! - 3 nights/ 4 days in Fernando de Noronha, and you'll have yourself a week's vacation you will never forget