Pantanal Site Inspection Report - Three Ecosystems: Savannah, Cerrado & Upper Amazon
Posted by Adam Carter on Fri, Jul 10, 2009 @ 12:20 PM
Guest Contributor Alexandra DeVries,
Author Frommers Guide to Brazil
I just returned from the Pantanal and was greatly impressed by the organization of the tour, and most importantly of all, with the destination itself. Although "site tour" may not be the most accurate name for this trip; it was more like Boot Camp! Up at the crack of dawn (or shortly thereafter),early morning hikes, afternoon hikes, swimming in frigid rivers where piranhas, alligators and anacondas lurk, canoeing, biking and horseback riding....not to mention falling into (very comfortable and cozy) beds by 10 pm. Very unlike my normal more bohemian ways.
However, the one week trip was a fabulous opportunity to experience Mato Grosso. This state in central Brazil allows visitors to experience three different ecosystems; the Amazon, the Cerrado and the Pantanal.
THEAMAZON
The most southern part of the Amazon rainforest dips all the way down to Mato Grosso and is only a 5-hour drive from Cuiabá. Our "home base", the Pousada Jardim Amazônia, is nestled in a well-preserved piece of rainforest and run by a friendly, outgoing couple, whose three enterprising daughters own and manage the fabulous Zank Hotel in Salvador.
Zanketi and his team have carved a beautiful and comfortable property out of the rainforest. The main lodge is the original family house and features a dining room, small reception and 4 rooms. The rooms are small but pleasantly furnished, with a bit of an old homestead feel to it. Just across from the lodge are 4 new bungalows with spacious rooms that can comfortably accommodate3-4 people. A number of wooden walkways lead to the natural swimming pools, formed by a small stream.
Although this part of the Amazon is not as grand and vast as what you may see on a trip further north, it offers an excellent introduction to this ecosystem as the flora and fauna are most certainly Amazonian. Various large fishponds surround the pousada where Zanketi breeds several beautiful (and tasty) species of Amazonian fish. Activities include nature walks, canoeing and swimming. We enjoyed a fascinating forest walk to observe the various Amazonian species of plants, trees and birds, and learned a great deal about the workings of this ecosystem. After a 2-hour walk we were rewarded with a delicious lunch that included freshly grilled Amazonian fish. Then it was time for a boat ride to look for anacondas and other critters. We stopped at a lovely white sandy beach(completely deserted as you can imagine) and went for a swim. The fact that we hadn't found any anacondas earlier was somehow not that reassuring. Our return to the lodge was by canoe, gently floating downstream without the noise of a boat engine, observing the river and the vegetation.
The next day we headed to Nobres, an area almost halfway between the Pousada Jardim Amazônia and Cuiabá. This region is blessed with many limestone caves, springs and rivers, very similar to those in Bonito, without the crowds and hype. Unfortunately our swim coincided with one of the colder days of our tour. (I must disclose here that I have a particularly low tolerance for cold water, but even by objective standards it was #¨#%#% cold!). However, duty called so in the river we went with a mask, snorkel and floating sandals to prevent you from touching the bottom (kicks up the sand and could possibly disturb the stingrays, which might attract the piranhas who would chew on you just enough to peak the interest of the anaconda... ok, only the part about the sand and stingray is really true; the piranhas don't actually seem to bite any snorkelers and the anacondas are happy eating other critters). Because of the limestone, the river is crystal clear, just like the ones in Bonito. The region offers several other snorkel and even dive sites, hikes and horseback riding. Our dive master Edson runs a number of dive tours in this region.
CHAPADA& CERRADO
After were covered with hot tea and a hot shower we all piled into the van to travel to the Chapada dos Guimarães. The Chapada is a high plateau in the geodesic center of Brazil. It rises approximately 2500 feet above sea level and is all the more dramatic as the surrounding land is very flat and the sheer red canyon walls rise almost straight up from the green valley bottom. The region has excellent hiking trails, bird watching, creeks and waterfalls and beautiful viewpoints. It is also a place where you are quite likely to spot to gorgeous scarlet macaws. Locals come here for the "cozy winter climate". That means it can be quite cool here, even in the summer, but in the winter in can be downright cold. A few sweaters, a fleece, warm socks, a windbreaker and comfortable closed shoes are a must.
We stayed at the Pousada do Parque, a lovely small pousada (9 rooms), with a fabulous location on a ridge overlooking a river valley and part of the Chapada table mountains. The pousada has a lovely lounge with a fireplace and several of the rooms have a heater.
We spent two days hiking and exploring a few different parts of the area. From the southwestern edge of the Chapada you can see all the way towards the Pantanal.
PANTANAL
And finally we reached the Pantanal. Technically speaking, the Araras Lodge is a 1.5- 2 hour drive from Cuiabá. Or, rather it is 1.5 hour to the beginning of the Transpantaneira "highway" (a bumpy dirt road), for the final 15 miles to the lodge. However, the wildlife didn't wait for us to reach the lodge and start the "tour", so as we were driving we began spotting alligators, capybaras, hawks, storks, spoonbills, kingfishers, and dozens of other bird species. We did eventually reach the lodge after another hour or so.
I would probably need another couple of pages to describe the Pantanal, but will try to be brief (or you can buy my book!). It is the best place in Brazil to see birds. And not tiny, obscure little birds that would only make the toes of a hardcore birdwatcher curl. I am talking about big birds, huge gorgeous birds, like the hyacinth macaws, parrots, toucans, hawks, and the tuiuiu, the 'Cessna' of storks. The vegetation of this floodplain is more savannah-like with vast fields and smaller trees, much less dense than the Amazon, but much more suitable for seeing animals. In3 days we saw more than 70 different bird species, as well as monkeys, alligators and various other animals.
The Pantanal is a huge floodplain and a unique aspect of it is that...it floods. So each season is quite different as the changing water levels affect the landscape. This time of year the region is still very wet, perfect for exploring by horse or canoe. There are some walking trails and the Araras Lodge has several boardwalk trails and observation towers that ensure prime wildlife viewing any time of year. There is no bad time to visit. However, in the summer it can get very hot (Oct-March). In the winter temperatures can range from hot to cold. The rainy season starts in Nov-Dec and lasts several months. For those who don't like it hot or muggy I can highly recommend the period May-Sept, a bit cooler and generally dry, sunny days.
Araras offers a great variety of excursions. There are a number of "musts": a boardwalk tour and visit to the Monkey tower, bird watching, walks, canoeing, biking, horseback riding, jeep excursions and a night-time safari. Guides will usually have people do a few different activities, but can tailor the program to accommodate special needs or interests. The most amazing part is that no matter where you are and what you are doing, you will see an amazing number of birds and other animals. It is really one of the best wildlife viewing experiences in Brazil and a must for birdwatchers.
And if any of you think that this destination is only for very hardcore outdoorsy adventure types, let me tell you that it is truly for all ages and styles. The lodges are very comfortable, the food is amazing and all activities are done in very small groups of 2-6people. Each travel party is assigned their own guide who will tailor any of the activities and programs to the group's interests and fitness level. We traveled the whole week with a couple from São Paulo and their 15 month old baby, who visited all of the same destinations as we did, except some of their activities were modified. People can opt to go more hardcore (camp one or two nights, enjoy full-day hikes or overnight horseback tours) or be less adventurous and just enjoy the bird watching and nature tours. You don't even have to walk. Those with mobility issues can experience almost as much traveling by jeep or boat, or just exploring the area around the lodges. Even if you were to never leave the lodge and lie in your hammock all day, you will see all kinds of wildlife. Truly impressive!